Notes on Chess
"The ability to play chess is the sign of a gentleman. The ability to play chess well is the sign of a wasted life."
~ Paul Morphy
"A chess genius is a human being who focuses vast, little-understood mental gifts and labors on an ultimately trivial human enterprise."
~ George Steiner
Chess teaches humility…give up on winning and focus on the fun.
Winning is irrelevant unless you are in a tournament…seriously.
No stress. Just have some fun.
Your hobbies are your hobbies for a reason, let it be a thing of comfort, and not a chore or a burden.
Consciously play to learn and let go of the result.
Taking each game as a lesson and don’t get discouraged by the numerous loses
If you don’t learn to fail, you’ll fail to learn.
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Checklist
Before every move:
Check
1. Checks of your King
2. Checks of your opponent’s King
3. Captures of your pieces
4. Captures of your opponent’s pieces
From both perspectives….
What is the piece defending?
Look for checks, captures and attacks.
Be intentional with your play; think about why you are playing each move.
Develop
All minor pieces before formulating attack
Control the center
Constrict --- Patience!
Prophylacticize…squeeze out any good moves he has
Protect
Disrupt his plan
Every move will likely carry with it a strength and a weakness.
Every piece WAS doing something, can this new position be capitalized on?
Put your opponent's last move under a microscope and determine its strengths as well as its weaknesses.
Once you see the main point, you can do something about it and not play the obvious response, which is what your opponent wants you to do.
Try to understand the real reason for your opponent's move.
Watch for Hangers!!!
Before your move:
Check to see if your King can be mated or if your Queen is hanging
Be aware of your and their undefended pieces.
Check for checks and captures!
Be aware of your and their possible checks/pins/forks.
Keep in mind the principle of the least active piece.
Be intentional with your play; think about why you are playing each move and be honest with yourself when you miss something or make a mistake.
You might be surprised how many lazy decisions we make based on arrogance ("he probably won't see that line"), or how much we beat ourselves up when we miss something or make a mistake (or the "he got lucky, it's unfair" storyline).
Don't worry about winning and losing. The rating system means you'll always do that in roughly equal measure for a long time to come. The point is first to have fun and second to learn.
Winning doesn't matter unless you're in a tournament.
Shifting from a results-based approach to a learning-based approach is the key thing, and it will take some conscious effort to do. Your satisfaction from the game will multiply, and you won't feel so much pain or anxiety from playing and losing.
You've got to be honest with yourself and ask yourself why you play chess. Hopefully, the answer is because thinking about chess and learning is fun. If that is true, then your performance doesn't matter.
If the answer is because you feel good when you beat people, then that's fair enough, it's very natural to feel that way. But see if you can change your focus over to the learning aspect. We will all lose 50% of our games, so getting a high off crushing all your opponents is an unobtainable dream that will only cause suffering.
Sure, a win feels good and should motivate you to play more. But don't indulge in that feeling or let it become your sole motivator.
Try playing some games online where you consciously play to learn and let go of the result.
It’s just a fucking game…don’t take it seriously…you are no grand master and never will be. Accept it and have fun.
You do not have to be good. You do not have to win. You have to enjoy doing it!
Diminish the ego (it can be unpleasant to observe the "ego" in action) from the equation as far as it goes to disturb the equilibrium of your life.
You can play chess, be happy you win, and disappointed you lose, but if you can display proper sportsmanlike conduct, not gloating/bragging as much as not moping about the outcome then you can enjoy the effort and have fun.
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“Play the opening like a book, the middlegame like a magician, and the endgame like a machine.”
~ Rudolph Spielmann
Chess is a war game. Our game is believed to
have originated in Eastern India, c. 280-550, in the Gupta Empire, where its early form in the 6th century was known as chaturanga (Sanskrit for four divisions of the military).
This word means literally four divisions of the military - infantry, cavalry, elephants, and chariotry, represented by the pieces that would evolve into the modern pawn, knight, bishop, and rook, respectively.
We wouldn't be far from reality if we said that every chess game, played by amateurs or professionals, is a field battle.
The two opponents need to devise a plan to attack the enemy's King; a plan that may change suddenly, because of an unexpected move of the opponent's armies.
Chess is also an art, especially when it comes to one of the most crucial parts of the game: Tactics
General Principles
There is no right or wrong move, simply good and bad moves depending on context.
Should the assets of a move outweigh its liabilities? It is this judgement of the imponderables, where exact calculation is not possible, that makes chess a fascinating blend of art and science.
In chess no truth is absolute and you will often find exceptions that go against these principles.
Nothing in chess, no convention, principle or recommended procedure, is to be practiced rigidly. The value of a single move or combination can only be measured with respect to the particular position on the board. It must fit in with the scheme of the game you are playing and be tempered by the demands of the opponent. A great deal depends on what he does, or lets you do.
When studying games, don’t necessarily worry about remembering the exact lines as these will vary, remember and focus on the ideas behind the main lines.
There are more possible iterations of a game of chess than there are atoms in the known universe.
Guidelines
Fully Develop
Control the center
Constrict --- Patience!
Squeeze out any good moves he has
Protect
Disrupt his plan
Be aware of your and their undefended pieces!
Be aware of your and their possible checks!
Checks…captures…attacks?
Every move will likely carry with it a strength and a weakness.
Look at what my opponent’s response would be, even in non-forcing lines!
Basic Tips:
RULE #1: DEVELOP PIECES AND ATTACK TOWARDS THE CENTER
RULE #2: CASTLE BEFORE ATTACKING
RULE #3: DO NOT PUSH KINGSIDE PAWNS
RULE #4: DO NOT TAKE THE QUEEN OUT EARLY
RULE #5: TRADE SIDE PAWNS FOR CENTER PAWNS
RULE #6: AVOID DOUBLING YOUR PAWNS
RULE #7: USE OPEN FILES AND CONNECT ROOKS
RULE #8: IMPROVE YOUR PIECES
RULE #9: BISHOPS ARE BETTER IN OPEN POSITIONS, KNIGHTS ARE BETTER IN CLOSED ONES
RULE#10: ACTIVATE YOUR KING IN THE ENDGAME
Before and after each move…yours and theirs:
Ask yourself…
1. What is the move doing?
2. What is the move no longer doing?
Can I take advantage of the weakness created by my opponent’s move? Can he of mine?
3. Can it be attacked?
Can the piece be ‘kicked’ from the square with a pawn?
Look for snipers and ninja’s!
4. When threatened/threating, can I or the enemy reply with a stronger threat?
i.e. counter-attack
Think about ‘should you react’ before ‘how to react’
i.e. Mate threats, checks, capture/threats to queen, rook, bishop, knight, pawn
Looking at any checks and captures you have to offer is like looking for loose pieces on the board: these are things you do all the time during a game!
5. When you see a good move…great…now look for a better one!
Keep in mind the principle of the least active piece!
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Watch for undefended pieces
Coordinate your forces
Be aware of pawn play
Doubled pawns, isolated pawns, backwards pawns create weaknesses to be exploited
Look at what my opponent’s response would be, even in non-forcing lines!
Castle because you want to or because you must or just because you can.
Patience. Be prepared when your opponent blunders.
Don’t attack until you have the attack square covered properly. Don’t hurry. Don’t force it.
Why did your opponent move the last move? Is he setting up a tactic on you?
Look at attacks from the opposite PoV.
Centralize your pieces
Trade your flank pawns for the central pawns
Avoid pawn weaknesses (doubled, backward, and isolated pawns)
Avoid creating weak squares in your position
· A square that cannot be protected by a pawn.
· Weak squares in your position are perfect candidates for becoming strong outposts for your opponent’s pieces.
· The closer the weak square is to your king’s position or to the center, the bigger trouble it usually creates.
· Always be careful with pawn advances, since that is what creates the weak squares.
· Pawns can’t go back.
Have a solid reason for doing an exchange
If you can’t describe a reason why a trade is at minimum neutral to you and preferably advantageous to you…you probably shouldn’t be making it.
If you are behind in pieces or underdeveloped...DO NOT exchange!
Don’t trade attacking pieces for defensive ones.
The exchange furnishes an excellent weapon IF
1) the exchange results in a gain of tempo
or
2) the liquidation is followed by a developing or freeing move
DO NOT exchange blindly and without motive!
Loose Pieces
"Never leave or place a piece loose without first looking for a possible fork or pin, and never see an enemy piece loose without doing the same."
You want to be aware of loose pieces on the board at all times.
Any piece your opponent has left unguarded is a possible target for a tactical strike; any piece of yours that is left unguarded is a vulnerability.
Indeed, you want to not only notice loose enemy pieces but also look for ways to create them.
"Loose pieces" also can be defined to include enemy pieces that are underdefended: attacked once and defended once by a fellow piece. Pieces in that condition sometimes can make targets just as good as pieces with no protection at all.
Forcing Moves
Checks, captures, and mate threats that limit your opponent’s replies therefore are known as forcing moves.
In other words, they are moves that force your opponent to pick from a small set of possible replies.
They are the essence of tactical chess; they allow you to dictate your opponent’s moves and thus control how the board will look two or three or more moves from now.
Looking at any checks and captures you have to offer is like looking for loose pieces on the board: these are things you do all the time during a game, because most great tactical ideas involve one of those elements or the other.
A double threat, such as a fork or discovered attack or one of the other themes we will consider, that becomes possible after the forcing moves have changed the board. As a result, you are able to take a loose or under protected enemy piece.
The Power of the Pin
When you pin your opponent, look to attack the pinned piece and the piece being pinned before capturing the pinned piece…consider attacking it further before capturing.
Don’t be so quick to release restricted pieces, leave them in timeout as long as possible.
The Laws of Knight Forks
This can be used to make your searching more efficient.
One way to build your ability to see all the potential knight forks on the board is to look for any two pieces of your opponent’s that are on squares of the same color as the square where your knight sits.
Every time a knight moves it lands on a different colored square.
Two pieces can be forked by a knight only if they are on squares of the same color.
Pieces only can be forked by a knight that lands on a square of the opposite color.
If a knight is in position to deliver a fork on its next move, the knight and its targets must all then be sitting on squares of the same color.
Two pieces can't be forked if they are on the same diagonal with one square between them.
A knight may be able to attack an enemy target two different ways—but never more than two.
Discovered Attacks
Discovered attacks always involve two offensive pieces: an unmasked piece and an unmasking piece.
The essence of a classic discovered attack is that before it is executed, neither piece directly threatens anything. After it is executed, both of them do.
Make it one of your goals to think of your pieces not just as individuals but as partners—as parts of a team whose efforts need to be coordinated.
Discovered attacks are an example of coordination, as each partner makes the other more powerful; a bishop and rook on the same file, with the former masking the latter, often has far more destructive power than either piece by itself.
Be aware of:
Position of Pieces and Pins (Lines/Colors for knights)
Pieces on the same line (file/rank/diagonal) are subject to pins, forks and skewers.
Before a knight lands on a fork, itself and 2 or more enemy pieces must be on the same color.
Knights on ranks 4 and 5 are especially powerful.
Reviewing Games
Mistake recognition checklist
Find out exactly when your position became unpleasant or hard to play.
Work your way backward until you find the first mistake!
1. Check your prophylactic moves. Were they necessary?
2. Check your attacking moves. Were they necessary?
3. Check ALL your pawn moves
4. Check every capture
5. Check every retreat
6. See a bad piece? What led to it?
7. Is your king unsafe? What led to it?
8. Is your pawn structure bad? What led to it?
9. Check every trade offer
Opening Basics
(first seven moves or so)
In the open game speed of development is the very first law.
Every piece must be developed in one move.
Every pawn move is to be regarded as a loss of time, unless it helps to build or support the center or attack the enemies center.
In the opening, one or two pawn moves, not more.
1. Control the center
2. Don’t move the F pawn
3. Develop minor pieces (knights before bishops)
4. Don’t leave unprotected pieces…overprotect!
5. Castle
6. Develop major pieces
Develop queen (but not too far from home to avoid harassment by minors)
Move rooks to the open files or center, connecting them
7. Start Attack (don’t attack early!)
Move pawns
Activate minor pieces towards the center
Don’t move the same piece more than once
Only make enough pawn moves so as to help develop the bishops
Don’t lock your bishop inside the pawn chain
Keep the bishop pair (unless using a gambit)
· Avoid giving up one of your bishops in the opening or early middle-game just to create doubled pawns in your opponent’s pawn structure
If you are behind in pieces...DO NOT exchange!
Middle Game
DEVELOP YOUR PIECES
Already as beginners, we are all taught not to undertake any actions (for instance opening the position), while insufficiently developed. But more often than not, we get impatient and start concrete play while forgetting about a certain piece.. or two..
TAKE CARE OF HIS MAJESTY
Keep your King well-guarded
Generally, once you get the opportunity to castle, you might want to do it. Better sooner than never.
Pawn Exchanges
When you have a tempe (time) advantage, seek/welcome pawn exchanges in order op open files/diagonal to optimize major pieces already developed.
Conversely, if you are underdeveloped, seek to keep the position closed.
EXPLOIT OPPONENT’S WEAKNESSES
A backward pawn left without the support of the other pawns
An isolated pawn left without the support of the other pawns
A doubled or tripled pawns whose mobility is severely restricted
An advanced pawn in front of the king that is prone to pawn/piece attacks
A pawn too far advanced and left without the support of the remaining pieces, etc.
EXCHANGE PIECES WHEN AHEAD IN MATERIAL
In general, once you win material, further exchanges should be in your favour.
PAWNS DON’T MOVE BACKWARDS
Most beginners throw the kitchen sink at their opponent and unleash pawn advances without proper thinking. And once they attack fails miserably, they are left with plenty of weaknesses for their opponent to exploit.
AN ATTACK ON THE FLANK IS BEST COUNTERED BY ACTION IN THE CENTRE
OCCUPY OPEN FILES WITH HEAVY PIECES
PLAY WITH A PLAN
Failing to plan is planning to fail.
You can always change your plan, but only once you have one!
It is said that it is better to play with a bad plan, then without a plan whatsoever.
Often one’s plan may be highly dependent on the opponent’s moves. Therefore, it is important to remain flexible with your plans, and to be able to adapt your plan according to the circumstance.
Some possible plans might include the following:
Attacking a weak pawn
Preparing to attack the king
Utilizing a weak square
Undermining the opponent’s center, etc..
PREVENT YOUR OPPONENT’S PLAN(S)
You should always keep track of your opponent’s plans, as well as your own. And if it is possible, you should do your best to prevent your opponent’s plan.
IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT TO DO, IMPROVE YOUR WORST PIECE
Other:
· Look for an area of the board to focus on
· If you have no significant attacks available, look to restrict your opponent’s most important pieces
· Incrementally, slowly better your positions.
Put your rooks on central lines in the beginning of the middle game. Develop/activate your rooks to open files, preferably the center.
Don’t let them sit in the corner unused!
· Bust up their pawn structure using sacrifices. Find squares where you have more than one attacker than him and go to town.
· Use your pawns to move forward and clear the way.
· Blockade your opponent’s isolated pawn with a knight
· Use your pawns to advance and attack!
· Occupy open files with your rooks
End Game
The beginning point where a King can effectively take on an offensive role in strategy
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Pawn Majorities
With a pawn majority, candidate passed pawns (the one in a half open file) should lead the way!
Pieces behave somewhat differently in the end games
Similarly to middle game
Bishops function best on open positions (usual positions of end games)
Knights function best in closed positions (pawns fixed in the middle)
Two bishops together are much more powerful than a pair of knights
They can control the board much more quickly
Different from middle game
Middle game it is common to use pawns to barricade bishops , you want pawns on the same squares as your opponent’s bishop whereas in the endgame you want your pawns on the opposite color than your opponent’s bishop making them invulnerable to attack
You want to centralize your King
King + Pawn versus King
Must use the King in advance of the pawn to clear the territory, the opponents King placed directly in front of your pawn will always be drawn
Taking ‘the opposition’
Three criteria for having the opposition:
Kings on same color square
Odd number of squares between the King
Opponents turn to move
Fight for control of the three squares in front of the King, the opponent King must move out of one of the three squares, then you take the square that was previously being covered by your Kings opponents.
To take the opposition
Maneuver your King to the front of the three squares controlled by the enemy King, and once he vacates one of the attacked square move into that square and continue to outflank him clearing a path for the pawn fowling behind you until you rah the last rank
Vice versa, if you have the single pawn continue to take the opposition from your opponent’s King all the way to the end forcing a stalemate.
Defending side wants symmetry, the Kings on the same file
On offense, you want asymmetry in order to out flank as described above
